2016 Counoise Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain
Every time I taste a 100% pure Counoise I am stunned. It simple is one of the most interesting wines around. Counoise is a dark skinned grape that grows primarily in the south end of the Rhone valley where it is known for its peppery/spicy nature and its high acidity. There, Counoise labors in relative anonymity. Yet, it is one of the thirteen grape varieties allowed in Châteauneuf du Pape and is a key component in many of the Chateau's more notable blends.
Tablas Creek in California, first brought Counoise plants to North America in 1990. Using plants sourced from Tablas Creek, Ciel du Cheval planted its current block of Counoise in 2000. It was thought that Counoise would be used as a blending component and combined with Ciel’s other Rhone varietals (Syrah, Mourvédre and Grenache). However, once in the winery, Washington winemakers take notice of it. Fresh, delicious with great mouthfeel and bright acidity, most now see it as worthy variteal on its own. .
Counoise is one of the great secrets in winemaking. It is a key variety in the production of many great Rhone wine blends. And, by itself, bottled as a single varietal wine it is truly remarkable. Ruby Red/Crimson in color, deep and dark it has a remarkably intense nose of black pepper, raspberries, cassis, tobacco and earth mixing in an ever-changing dance. The palate is generous, initially draping the mouth with an intense mix of berries, cocoa powder. and earth. It then builds adding warm spices and coffee beans. Underneath this all lies an intense spine of acid and supple tannins which drive a long finish. 123 Cases.
| Vintage | 2016 |
| Varietal | 100% Counoise |
| Appellation | Red Mountain |
| Vineyard | Ciel du Ceval |
| Fermentation | Open Top Fermenter |
| Alcohol | 14.80% |
| Wine Style | Red Wine |
| Volume | 750 ml |
93 Points, Vinous
Eric Guido, 1/24/2023
The 2016 Counoise is dark with an exotic spiciness that keeps the glass in constant motion as black raspberries and sage come together with mentholated herbs and balsamic nuances. Soft and supple, this washes across the palate with ripe black fruits, coming across as a bit opulent yet nicely balanced with flashy acidity providing contrast. Still slightly tannic yet full of energy, the 2016 finishes with admirable length and potency. This varietal Washington State Counoise is a total pleasure to taste. Drink from 2024 to 2030.
92 Points, Decanter
Clive Pursehouse 12/2/2022
A Counoise is not commonplace in Washington state, and it was planted at Ciel du Cheval in 2000, having been pioneered in the US by Tablas Creek. The wine is wonderful and youthful at six years on. Its bright red hue seems indicative of its overall personality. Aromas of fresh raspberry, anise, and stony minerals introduce a palate of tangy red and blueberry fruits, great lift and acidity take the wine into a mineral-driven finish with notes of stone and white pepper. Fresh.
91 Points, Great Northwest Wine
Aromas of fig, dried black cherry and white pepper are joined by cherry tomato. On the palate, it’s bright with Montmorency cherry, cola and dried strawberry, offering a nice bit of grip to pair with lean meats such as flank steak or a New York strip.
